Van Heusen Products, Inc. v. Earl & Wilson

300 F. 922
CourtDistrict Court, S.D. New York
DecidedJuly 15, 1924
StatusPublished
Cited by32 cases

This text of 300 F. 922 (Van Heusen Products, Inc. v. Earl & Wilson) is published on Counsel Stack Legal Research, covering District Court, S.D. New York primary law. Counsel Stack provides free access to over 12 million legal documents including statutes, case law, regulations, and constitutions.

Bluebook
Van Heusen Products, Inc. v. Earl & Wilson, 300 F. 922 (S.D.N.Y. 1924).

Opinion

LEARNED HAND, District Judge.

It seems to me best to approach this case by inquiring first whether the conceded success of both the plaintiffs’ and the defendants’ collars is due to some invention- common to both, afterwards to inquire whether that invention is to be found in any. of the patents in suit, and finally whether it had earlier appeared in the art and was overlooked. The first question is easily answered. Van Heusen’s collars appeared in April, 1921, and almost at once got a vogue which puts it beyond any doubt that they indeed answered the proverbial long felt want. This conclusion is corroborated by the history of the art.

The soft; unstarched collar is over 20 years old, and people were then trying to reinforce it, so that it might be stiffer and less untidy, while at the same time it should remain comfortable to the neck. This appears from patent No.- 699,847 to Nichols, which was for a hair-cloth support in the neckband, and was applied for on October 23, 1901. The art tried other devices besides Nichols’s hair cloth to accomplish the same result, as by the insertion of a celluloid slip, Lord, No. 826,177 (July 17, 1906); Heery, No. 945,164 (January 4, 1910); Quigley, No. 962,665 (June 28, 1910). These were obviously troublesome and awkward and other kinds of stiffeners were used, for example, Bristol, 1,069,760 (August 12, 1913), which contained an irregular metal V in the front; Quigley, No. 1,091,017 (March 24, 1914), which had local,reinforcements at the buttonholes; or Robinson, No. 1,112,033 (September 29, 1914).

Several of the foregoing were assigned to the defendants here in suit, but none of them ever became popular. All these were conceived before Bolton made his application, but other attempts were made later, and before 1921, as is shown in the patents to Glaxon, No. 1,170,243; McKay, No. 1,200,381; Gorman, No. 1,218,254; Renihan, No. 1,223,521; Turrell, No. 1,243,463; Pine, No. 1,253,418; Becker, No. 1,276,480; Hurd and Wright, No. 1,287,324; Spingarn, No. 1,294,843; and Hemmick, No. 1,363,871.- These also ring the changes upon stiffeners of one sort or another, of different materials, permanent or removable. It is clear that in such a field the winner has not expounded a text which he who runs may read.

As I have said, Van Heusen’s collars appeared in April of 1921. Before the year was out his success made it industrially necessary for the defendants to put on the market the present alleged infringements, which were quite new in their manufacture, and from that time forward the “semi-soft” collars began to drive the older “soft” collars off the market. Indeed, their fashion h'as become a matter, not of competition, but of elimination; the soft collar as an article of wear is clearly doomed. This was accomplished without any unusual cost of advertising; the plaintiff’s expenses for this purpose were no greater than for starched collars, and were small indeed, considering that a newly commodity was being introduced. Something had obviously occurred in the collar industry of major importance. For reasons, real or fancied, the public had at length found a collar which suited its needs as nothing else had done theretofore. The business grew enormously in the succeeding three years, and has indeed somewhat invaded the starched collar industry itself.

[925]*925To any one in the least familiar with patents it must be evident that an invention of high merit had appeared in this art, and that it was contained in the collars which Van Heusen put out in April of 1921. It is quite idle by logistic niceties to try to obscure this outstanding fact. Bolton may riot have conceived it; Bolton may not have disclosed it; Bolton may not have claimed it; Van Heusen may have abandoned it; but the public had got something which it had been wanting for 20 years, and which after repeated efforts nobody had found before. The defendants recognized this at once, and trimmed their sails to the prevailing wind, as they had to. Being the most experienced manufacturers in the art, I may safely assume that they quickly learned what was kernel and what was shell, what to discard and what to keep. They argue that it was Van Heusen’s weakened fold line, or his curvilinear weave, or the other details of his structure which hit the popular fancy; but I prefer to accept the evidence) of their conduct, not alone because it is more disinterested, but because their successful inroads upon Van Heusen’s market corroborate the accuracy of their insight as to what had brought success. I am safe in fixing the real invention in those qualities which the present collars all have in common, and which earlier collars had not, and by earlier collars I mean those which had actually been marketed in quantity and were not merely disclosed in the Patent Office.

Nobody can doubt that this common quality was in the use of multiple-ply interwoven fabric in the neckband or in the flap, closely enough woven to make it stiff. This Van Heusen’s collars all had; this the defendant’s collars all have; this no previous collar put upon the market ever had, as I shall try to show later. Bike many other striking inventions, it rests upon so simple and obvious an idea that its assertion arouses only contempt for its claims to originality until success has made it formidable.

It becomes necessary, then, to consider how far Bolton had arrived at any such notion, and whether his most generic claim goes so far. It is really only his first patent which 'matters, because his second is easy to evade, and success upon it would help the plaintiff very little. At the very outset among the purposes of his invention he says (page 1,.lines 14 — 20): “The invention provides a collar of multiple-ply interwoven fabric which is sufficiently stiff to maintain its shape without the employment of starch, and is nevertheless sufficiently pliable to assume the necessary curvatures to fit the neck of the wearer without undue rigidity.” This statement alone .is nearly, if not quite, enough disclosure, as the art found. He had other objects as well, but they were secondary, and need not concern me here. This “multiple-ply interwoven fabric,” of which he speaks, was already well understood in the art, and used for many other purposes. All the plies are woven at the same time, the “layers forming substantially a single entity by reason of the weaving at intervals of threads with adjacent layers into each other” (page 1, lines 99-103).

It is clear that Bolton supposed that the inherent stiffness of the fabric so produced might not, and probably would not, alone be enough to produce what he wanted. In any event, he described in the main [926]*926portion of his patent (page 2, lines 18-22) that “one of the layers * * * is provided with reinforcing threads of such a character that they will take on and maintain a more or less permanent set,” and he suggested for such reinforcing threads very fine copper wire with a coating of spun fiber. These were to run occasionally alongside of a horizontal weft thread, “to insure the permanence of that curvature,” and were thus to encircle the neck. I agree that, in the passage (page 3, lines 12--25) in which he describes what is “broadly new” in his invention, he is still speaking of a horizontal thread of some material other than the yarn out of which the collar is woven. Indeed, were it not for the passage at the outset already quoted, for the concluding paragraph of his specifications (page 3, lines 31-39), and for some of his claims, I should not have found anything in his disclosure which would serve the plaintiff in this suit.

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Bluebook (online)
300 F. 922, Counsel Stack Legal Research, https://law.counselstack.com/opinion/van-heusen-products-inc-v-earl-wilson-nysd-1924.