Wm. Filene's Sons Co. v. Fashion Originators' Guild

90 F.2d 556, 1937 U.S. App. LEXIS 3880
CourtCourt of Appeals for the First Circuit
DecidedJune 1, 1937
Docket3223
StatusPublished
Cited by7 cases

This text of 90 F.2d 556 (Wm. Filene's Sons Co. v. Fashion Originators' Guild) is published on Counsel Stack Legal Research, covering Court of Appeals for the First Circuit primary law. Counsel Stack provides free access to over 12 million legal documents including statutes, case law, regulations, and constitutions.

Bluebook
Wm. Filene's Sons Co. v. Fashion Originators' Guild, 90 F.2d 556, 1937 U.S. App. LEXIS 3880 (1st Cir. 1937).

Opinion

WILSON, Circuit Judge.

This is an appeal from a decree of the District Court of Massachusetts in a bill in equity praying for an injunction against the continuance of an alleged conspiracy in the restraint of and to monopolize interstate commerce in violation of sections 1 and 2 of chapter 1 of title 15 U.S.C.A. known as the Sherman Anti-Trust Act, and for relief under section 16 of the Clayton Act (Title 15 U.S.C.A. § 26) against threatened loss and damage by the violation of the Sherman Act.

The case was first heard before a judge of the District Court on motion for a preliminary injunction, which was denied. The case was then referred to a special master to hear the parties and their evidence and report to the court his findings of fact and his conclusions of law thereon. The evidence before the master was not reported and the District Court in a final decision stated that, so far as the report presents findings of fact, they are adopted by the District Court as the statement of facts required by Equity Rule No. 70%, 28 U.S.C.A. following section 723. We must accept the facts as found by the master.

The master reported the following facts: The plaintiff, Wm. Filene’s Sons Company, hereinafter referred to as Filene’s, owns and operates a ready-to-wear specialty store in Boston, with numerous branches in other parts of Massachusetts, and owns all the capital stock of R. IT. White Company, hereinafter called White’s, which operates a department store in Boston.

The defendant Fashion Originators’ Guild of America, Inc., hereinafter called The Guild, is a corporation organized under the laws of New York on March 7, 1932.

Prior to the war, the ladies’ ready-to-wear industry was of small consequence. Shortly after the war, the manufacture and sale of ready-to-wear dresses became more common, and the volume of sales of such dresses increased year by year, until in 1934 the dollar volume of such sales in this country reached a level of $430,000,000.

Some manufacturers of ready-to-wear dresses originate their own styles for the dresses they make. Other manufacturers do not originate their own styles, but copy the styles and designs of other manufacturers. Manufacturers who originate their own styles and designs are called “original creators,” and manufacturers who copy the styles and designs of other manufacturers are called “copyists.”

The copying of other manufacturers’ styles and designs is commonly called in the trade “style piracy” or “design piracy.” The terms “style” and “design” are sometimes used as though they were synonymous. But strictly speaking, “style” as applied to a dress refers to its general characteristics, such as the length of the skirt, the size of the sleeves, the height of the waist, etc., *558 while “design” as applied to a dress includes all the details involved in its makeup. A style is a type, while a design is an interpretation of the style. A single style, therefore, may be followed in almost any number of different designs.

Styles in ladies’ dresses are usually determined in the so-called style centers of the world, of which Paris is the principal one. A manufacturer who is an original creator generally sends his stylists and designers to Paris for inspiration. After making observations and determinations, such stylists and designers prepare their own designs and use their knowledge of the probable requirements of their employers’ customers and their own ideas as to what will be popular with the buying public which they serve. Styles and designs prepared in this way are considered in the industry to be original creations.

There are five seasons a year in the dress industry, the spring season, the .summer season, the fall season, the winter season, and the winter resort season.

A manufacturer makes up a line of samples for each season. The cost to produce a single line is between $30,000 and $50,000. When a line has been prepared, it is put on display in the manufacturer’s showroom and is there shown to prospective retail buyers.

The period between the first order of a dress of a particular style and design and the last substantial reorder of it is called the “style life” of the dress, which is usually not more than three months.

A manufacturer who is a copyist does not send stylists or designers to Paris for inspiration. Instead he copies original designs of other manufacturers, which is accomplished in different ways. Sometimes a copyist buys dresses from retailers who have purchased them from original creators. Sometimes employees of copyists visit the showrooms of original creators and memorize or take notes of the details of the original design there displayed. Sometimes copyists obtain sketches or photographs • of successful designs of original creators from agencies which make a business of supplying such sketches and photographs. Sometimes copyists bribe employees of original creators to furnish samples of their employers’ original designs or to let them see samples from which they make sketches, and occasionally the original designs are stolen from the original creators.

Copying destroys the style value of dresses which are copied. Women will not buy dresses at a good price at one store if dresses which look about the same are offered for sale at another store at half those prices. For this reason, copying substantially reduces the number and amount of reorders which the original creators get. With this uncertainty with respect to reorders, original creators cannot afford to buy materials in large quantities as they otherwise would. This tends to increase the cost of their dresses and the prices at which they must be sold.

Reputation for honesty, style, and service is an important asset of retailers. Copying often injures such a reputation. A customer who has bought a dress at one store and later sees a copy of it at another store at a lower price is quite likely to think that the retailer from whom she bought the dress lacks ability to select distinctive models and that she has been overcharged. Dresses are returned and customers are lost.

In the spring of 1935 in dollar volume a very large per cent, of the total ready-to-wear dress business in the United States was in copies. Prior to the activities of The Guild, manufacturers of cheaper dresses copied most of their designs.

With the dress industry in a seriously chaotic state, due in large part to the prevalence of “style piracy,” a group of dress manufacturers who were original creators organized The Guild in 1932. The purposes for which The Guild was formed as set forth in its certificate of incorporation are as follows:

“To protect the originators of fashions and styles against copying and piracy of styles of any trade or industry; to promote co-operation and friendly intercourse in the wearing apparel industries; to establish and maintain uniformity and certainty in the customs and commeixial usages of trade; to acquire, preserve and disseminate information and literature which will tend to augment the sale of the commodities manufactured or sold; to advance the trade and commercial industries of its members throughout the Americas and to promote the sale, identification and recognition of original style and merchandise of the industries of its members.”

A registration bureau was established by The Guild in 1933.

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Bluebook (online)
90 F.2d 556, 1937 U.S. App. LEXIS 3880, Counsel Stack Legal Research, https://law.counselstack.com/opinion/wm-filenes-sons-co-v-fashion-originators-guild-ca1-1937.