United States v. Germain

3 Ct. Cust. 321, 1912 WL 19378, 1912 CCPA LEXIS 128
CourtCourt of Customs and Patent Appeals
DecidedMay 31, 1912
DocketNo. 788
StatusPublished
Cited by3 cases

This text of 3 Ct. Cust. 321 (United States v. Germain) is published on Counsel Stack Legal Research, covering Court of Customs and Patent Appeals primary law. Counsel Stack provides free access to over 12 million legal documents including statutes, case law, regulations, and constitutions.

Bluebook
United States v. Germain, 3 Ct. Cust. 321, 1912 WL 19378, 1912 CCPA LEXIS 128 (ccpa 1912).

Opinion

Barber, Judge,

delivered the opinion of the court:

The question here is whether certain gloves are subject to the cumulative duty assessed thereon under paragraph 445 of the tariff act of 1897, which provides for an additional duty of 40 cents per dozen pairs "on all gloves stitched or embroidered with more than three single strands or cords.” Other gloves were involved in the hearing before the Board of General Appraisers, the protests relating to which were overruled by the board, while as to the gloves represented by the official exhibit before us, the protests were sustained and the case is here for review upon the appeal of the Government.

As we understand the record in this case in connection with the exhibit, the gloves involved each have upon the backs three cords or points, each made of a single thread which is stitched through the leather of the back of the glove in such a manner as to present a raised appearance on the outside, and these three cords or points constitute what is referred to as one style of a "Paris point.” The stitching which results in these points appears on the inside of the glove as well as on the outside.

Between each of the outer of these cords or points and the central one on the surface of the outside is a stitching, zigzag in appearance, made with one thread by a machine. This thread is not stitched through the leather, but the end of the thread marking the end of the stitch shows on the inside. This stitching may be referred to as "crow’s foot” stitching, and seems to he embroidery.

One witness testified on behalf of the importers and one on behalf of the Government, and in effect the board found upon this evidence and the exhibit that the gloves involved in this appeal were not stitched or embroidered with more than three single strands' or cords. The Government contends that this finding is so clearly against the weight of evidence, in view of the law applicable thereto, that it should be reversed.

[322]*322As the board well says in its opinion, the issue of whether gloves are stitched or embroidered with more than three single strands or cords “has been repeatedly tried before the board and the courts, except that in practically every case the ornamentation on the glove involved has been different.”

A proper understanding of the issues may best be obtained from a review of the authorities. The statute was first enacted as paragraph 445 of the tariff act of 1897. The first case thereunder seems to be the board decision (T. D. 19945) decided August 18, 1898. The opinion shows that the embroidery is in three rows on the back of the glove, each row presents the appearance of three-plait crochet work, but this effect is produced by the needle with only one cord or strand of thread as is shown by the stitching through and on the inside of the glove.” The opinion further shows that eight competent experts were examined and upon their unanimous testimony it was found that the gloves were not stitched or embroidered with more than three single strands or cords. Upon appeal this judgment was affirmed in the Circuit Court January 18, 1900 (124 Fed. Rep., 1013), the court, by Wheeler, judge, saying:

These are gloves with three rows of embroidery, each of a single cord, but passing more than once throughout the decoration. Paragraph 445 provides for an additional duty “on all gloves stitched or embroidered with more than three single strands or cords.” * * * The addition is to cords and not to turns or directions of the same cord. Here are but three cords.

This was acquiesced in by the Treasury Department February 9, 1900 (T. D. 21996).

The Siegel-Cooper case (T. D. 25038) was decided by the board February 20, 1904. We quote from its opinion sufficiently to show what was involved and decided.

Excepting in one instance all the gloves before us have stitching or embroidery submitted with three single parallel lines or rows, but the importers contend that as these lines or rows were made with the same single unbroken thread the gloves do not fall within the paragraph cited. The testimony before us shows that a “cord” as understood in the glove trade is an embellishment on the back of a glove produced by creasing the leather longitudinally and then oversewing the same with a silk thread; * * * that a “strand” in the trade is synonymous with the term “row of embroidery.” A “cord” is stitched and a “strand” is embroidered. The former is known as a cord of stitching and the latter as a strand of embroidery. Whether or not a glove has more than three single strands or cords is not determined by the fact that it has or has not been stitched by one unbroken thread or filament, for the terms “strand” and “cord” have no reference to the thread or filament used, but only to the effect produced. There are many gloves which have highly ornamental embellishments, but yet are stitched or embroidered with only three single strands or cords. This result is brought about by an attachment to the machine used that produces what is known as the “Brosser stitch.” The number of strands or cords stitched on a glove is determined by turning the glove inside out and counting the number of lines of parallel needle holes. In the Brosser stitch there are only three such single parallel lines. Another variety of embellishment is known as the “crow’s foot. ” * * * The Brosser stitch is shown in the glove submitted with protest [323]*32350628Í, which is in the same general class as the glove that was held in United States v. Robinson (124 Fed. Rep., 1013) to have only three single strands or cords. Some of the gloves before us have three cords in the decoration, around which are lines of plain stitching. In some, these lines are produced by one thread additional to each cord and in others by two or more threads. Such gloves are stitched in more than three single ends or strands even within the importers’ contention.
* * * * **
The only conclusion to be reached is that Congress meant to charge an extra duty, not for using a new or separate thread for each line of stitching, and to exempt therefrom gloves stitched with a continuous or unbroken thread, but against the cost and labor necessary to produce the finished effect, and the reference to cords or strands is * * * to the result achieved and not to the material used in accomplishing it. * * * The provision, however, is not for stitching applied with more than three strands or cords of thread. It concerns not the number of threads used, but the number of lines oE stitching that produce the cords or the strands of embroidery. The sample submitted with protest 50628f has a decoration which consists of three single strands, and it would be exempt from the additional duty imposed by paragraph 415, but it is not proved to have been part of the importation covered by said protest, and the special report of the local appraiser states that it was not. This protest, there-ore, as well as all the other protests enumerated in the schedule, is hereby overruled, and the decision of the collector affirmed in each case.

In the Trefousse-Passavant case, Abstract 8396 (T. D. 26753), on the authority of the last-mentioned Siegel-Cooper case and another case theretofore decided by it, the board overruled the protests, but its opinion does not show the character of the stitching or embroidery on the gloves.

In Trefousse v. United States (144 Fed. Rep., 708).

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Bluebook (online)
3 Ct. Cust. 321, 1912 WL 19378, 1912 CCPA LEXIS 128, Counsel Stack Legal Research, https://law.counselstack.com/opinion/united-states-v-germain-ccpa-1912.