Abercrombie & Fitch Co. v. United States

59 Cust. Ct. 122, 1967 Cust. Ct. LEXIS 2240
United States Customs Court·Decided August 28, 1967·No. C.D. 3093·Published·Cited by 2 cases

Opinion

Watson, Judge:

The merchandise in the case at bar, invoiced as “Sheepskin Coats,” was manufactured by Morlands of Glastonbury, Somerset, England. It was classified under paragraph 1519(e) of the Tariff Act of 1930, as modified by the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade, T.D. 51802, at the rate of 25 per centum ad valorem as articles manufactured wholly or in chief value of fur. Plaintiff claims the involved sheepskin coats properly classifiable at the rate of 15 per centum ad valorem under paragraph 1531 of said act, as modified by the Sixth Protocol of Supplementary Concessions to the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade, T.D. 54108, either directly, or by similitude (paragraph 1559(a) of the tariff act, as amended) to manufactures of leather, or of which leather is the component material of chief value.

The pertinent parts of paragraph 1519(e) and paragraph 1531, as modified, and paragraph 1559(a) of the tariff act, as amended, supra, read as follows:

[Par. 1519(e).] Articles, wholly or partly manufactured (including fur collars, fur cuffs, and fur trimmings), wholly or in chief value ox fur, not specially provided for:
* $ ⅜ * * ⅜ *
Other_ 25% ad val.
[124] [Par. 1531.] Manufactures of leather except reptile leather, * * * or of which leather (except reptile leather) * * * is the component material of chief value, not specially provided for * * *: * * * wearing apparel_ 15% ad val.
Pak. 1559(a) Each and every imported article, not enumerated in this Act, which is similar in the use to which it may be applied to any article enumerated in this Act as chargeable with duty, shall be subject to the same rate of duty as the enumerated article which it most resembles in the particular 'before mentioned; and if any non-enumerated article equally resembles in that particular two or more enumerated articles on which different rates of duty are chargeable, it shall be subject to the rate of duty applicable to that one of such two or more articles which it most resembles in respect of the materials of which it is composed.

Plaintiff alternatively claims that the merchandise is classifiable under paragraph 1558 of the tariff act, as modified by the Torquay Protocol to the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade, T.D. 52739, supplemented by T.D. 52827, at the rate of 10 per centum ad valorem covering articles manufactured in whole or in part, not specially provided for.

The record herein consists of the testimony of two witnesses called by the plaintiff and certain exhibits received in evidence. Plaintiff’s collective exhibit 1 is a catalog entitled “Morlands Sheepskin Coats” containing one photograph each of the ladies’ and men’s sheepskin coats here under protest. Plaintiff’s illustrative exhibit 2 is a representative sample of the men’s sheepskin coats in question, with the exception that the coats in the case at bar have sewn-in pockets, while the sample in evidence has loose flap pockets (E. 8). Plaintiff’s exhibit 3 is “a piece of suede leather shearling” (E. 9), a piece of sheepskin (E. 10), the same as that used in making the coats in question (E. 10).

Plaintiff called as its first witness Mr. Derek Hillman Waters, North American representative of Morlands company who stated that he has been affiliated with the manufacturer since February 1957. He testified that he is personally familiar with the manner in which the two items here under consideration are produced, having seen the skins being-prepared in the tannery and also having seen the coats being made from the skins. (E. 5-6.) The witness stated that the skin in the imported coats is known as suede, describing the latter as “the treatment of the skin by means of an abrasive wheel to raise a fine nap on the surface.” (E. 8-9.) He described plaintiff’s exhibit 3 as a piece of suede leather shearling, stating that a shearling “is a skin from a sheep that has been shorn once,” it appearing that the hide is taken off with the wool on it at that tíme. (E. 12-13.)

[125] Tlie process employed in the production of plaintiff’s exhibit 3 was described by plaintiff’s witness substantially as follows:

First, the raw skin is cleaned by soaking in cold water, in order to loosen all the dirt, blood, and other impurities that are in the skin. The skin is then washed in hot detergent, and fleshed, which process involves scraping all the fatty connective tissues and pieces of loose skin from the inside of the skin. At this stage, the skin is washed again, dried, and then pickled in a mixture of sulfuric acid and salt, which both preserves the skin temporarily and opens the pores of the skin to receive the tanning fluids. The skin can then be inspected to decide which type of product it is most suited for. At this point, which is the end of the second process, the skin is soft. (R. 13-14.)

The third part is the tanning process itself. (R. 14.) The skin is washed free of the pickle solution, immersed in chrome salts for the required length of time, removed and dried. It is then “retanned,” that is, the surface of the skin has the chrome scraped from it, and a vegetable tanning agent is applied, the purpose being to produce a finer suede. The skin is then dried, and de-greased to make it commercially acceptable which completes the third part of the process, at which point the skin is “irreversibly” tanned, that is, is permanently tanned, and cannot deteriorate. (R. 44-15.) “It then becomes leather.” (R. 16.)

The fourth process is the final processing. The leather side is wheeled on a sandstone grinding wheel to produce the suede finish required, and the skin is then dyed to whatever color is desired. All that remains is to comb and clip the wool in order to remove any knots or tangles present. The skin is then measured 'and put into storage. (R. 16-17.)

Mr. Waters further testified that all the processes theretofore described do not in any way affect the wool side; that the tannages used are designed to react chemically with the leather, but not with the wool. (R. 17.) He then stated that the finished product is a suede leather sheepskin. (R. 18.)

Plaintiff’s witness testified that, although he had never seen the processes employed in making fur skins and furs, he knew, however, “in general terms” how it was done. With that explanation, Mr. Waters was permitted by the court to explain the processing of furs, as distinguished from the processing of wool. He thereupon testified as follows:

A. The basic operation in preparing a fur is to produce the finest possible appearance of the fur itself. The skin part of the ai'ticle is incidental. The majority of furs that are currently processed are dressed on what is known as the Leipzig method. This is a treatment of alum salt and sulfuric acid, together with a heavy application of grease. The basic processes of fur processing are somewhat similar to [126] those of the sheepskin. In other words, the furs are washed, dried, treated with the Leipzig process, dried again, combed, and then the fur is ironed, or polished.
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Abercrombie & Fitch Co. v. United States, 59 Cust. Ct. 122, 1967 Cust. Ct. LEXIS 2240 (cusc 1967).

59 Cust. Ct. 122 (Abercrombie & Fitch Co. v. United States) — published by Counsel Stack Legal Research, free access to 12M+ legal documents.

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